Taranaki Falls Track in Tongariro National Park
A note: I traveled to New Zealand in August 2013, but am writing in present tense so you'll feel like you're right here with me on my solo adventure.
This is my first full day in this amazing national park. After having done a quick drive through of Whakapapa Village the day before, my plan is to park in the visitor parking lot that's central to the visitor center, two eateries and Taranaki Falls Track; grab breakfast; stop at the visitor center for last-minute necessities (the bathroom); then go. All are within easy walking distance.
New Zealand has nine Great Walks. One of them is the world-famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing and Tongariro Northern Circuit located in Tongariro National Park. Mind you, I didn't attempt either of them. My hike, or tramp, for the day is the six-kilometer-long (little less than four miles) Taranaki Falls Walking Track. It's not too long, not too short; it's ju-u-ust right. And it conveniently begins just below the Whakapapa Visitor Center and above the Chateau Tongariro Hotel.
Established in 1887 as New Zealand's first national park, Tongariro is both culturally and spiritually important to the Maori people. It's a designated UNESCO dual World Heritage Area that covers more than 79,000 hectares—that's more than 195,213 acres! As such, the national park is home to at least 30 different walks and tracks in and around the park that cater to all ages, sizes and ability levels; it can take you as quick as 20 minutes or more than a few days. It all depends on what you'd like to experience or have time for.
Whakapapa Visitor Centre sits alongside Highway 48, which continues up to the flanks of Mt. Ruapehu where the ski area known as Happy Valley welcomes snow sport enthusiasts. It's a premiere ski place perfectly suited for beginners.
Fergusson's Cafe, one of two eateries in the village that I noticed. Grabbed some breakfast, then stowed a lox and bagel for later. Turned out to be a great idea since I was hungry about 3/4 through the walk and there was no village in sight!
From this point on, I'll let the pictures do the talking. A LOT of pictures, so hang in there! I do love photography you know! : )
Located a few feet below the visitor center, these helpful signs point me in the right direction.
This is where I start my walk, but you can also opt to begin at the other end of this loop trail. Having done the walk, I do prefer the direction I took as most of the trail seemed walking down as opposed to going up. Gravity is my friend and I don't like to fight it.
After passing rows of single story apartments, I hit the Taranaki Falls Walking Track lined by red tussock and alpine shrubland. Looks pretty solitary; there are only three other single hikers I encounter while walking in. I'm totally at peace with the cool breeze on my face and lovely sound of gravel crunching underfoot.
Not sure what type of plant this is, but it provides a nice opportunity for pictures. I took more than a dozen shots—angles make all the difference, don't you know! This one's just straight up ho-hum.
Entering an almost colorless beech forest. Doesn't it feel like a band of Orcs awaits just around the corner? From what I've read, this path was previously a horse trail.
A welcome sight of friendly walkers sporting bright colors comes into view after I exit the beech forest. Barely visible in the distance is Mt. Tongariro. Around the turn is Wairere Stream and a short bridge. Up to this point, the trail is an easy, slow upgrade, not difficult at all.
View from atop the bridge that straddles peaceful Wairere Stream. At one point, I just have to stop and listen. There's nothing more soothing than the sound of a slow bubbling stream. Have I mentioned I feel like I'm in heaven?
This sign post marks the crossroad between trails, and is the midway point on the Taranaki Falls Track. Notice nearby lava formations that are more than 15,000 years old. Passing hikers tell me the falls is right down the trail.
An awesome view of Mt. Ruapehu from the trail. Being winter, I guess it's too much ask to photograph even one mountain without any cloud cover. There are several times when I think I'll be lucky, but the purposefully slow-moving clouds foil me time and again. Where is the justice?
I can hear Taranaki Falls which I imagine is within sight just beyond this bend.
Huh? More forest?
At long last—Taranaki Falls.
Lovely! Taranaki Falls is 20 meters tall (about 66 feet), falling off an andesite lava flow that erupted nearly 15,000 years ago from Mt. Ruapehu. I and several other hikers stop to sit atop stone benches, taking in the waterfall's beauty. I imagine sitting at the edge of the pool and submerging my feet during the heat of summer. It's a beautiful spot.
The trail leading back to Whakapapa Village calls, and before long, I'm back on my feet. Actually, you couldn't ask for a more inviting path on which to walk. Crunch, crunch, crunch...
One last look at Taranaki Falls. A small stream leading away from the falls runs parallel to this path...
...and falls into this small narrow gorge that's really quite lovely.
Entering once again into Orc territory, though this forest of beech trees, broadleaf, mountain five-finger, ferns and mountain toatoa doesn't seem as forboding. Bright chirps flash every now and then to announce the presence of native birds.
Foray into photography. The light falls just so onto the moss-covered branches, and it's challenging to capture. But I try.
Window of opportunity: I remember my lox and bagel and stop here to enjoy munching accompanied by the percolating Wairere Stream. Actually, I smell the onion from my plastic-wrapped snack when I take out my camera from the bag to get this shot. Perfect timing!
After leaving the tranquil forest, I'm disappointed to see Tongariro Chateau in the distance...oy vey, back to civilization. However there are two gulleys to navigate through, plus awesome mountain views cheer me up.
Justice prevails! Mt. Ngauruhoe with almost no cloud cover! It's the best I'm going to get this day, and I'll take it. Did you know? Ngauruhoe is the youngest of three mountains in Tongariro National Park. The other two are Ruapehu, the largest and highest mountain in the North Island, and Tongariro across which the 19km (about 11.8-mile) Tongariro Alpine Crossing makes its way.
Still can't quite get that lovely light.
Mt. Ruapehu and I are smiling because the clouds have lifted!
What can I say? I simply love trees.
Tongariro Chateau certainly looked just a hop, skip and a jump away, but it's further than I thought. No problem!
Anyone for one last parting shot of Mt. Ngauruhoe coated in nemesis clouds?
This is where I end my walk though it actually looks like the start of the trail. As mentioned earlier, you can begin at either end.
The Taranaki Falls Walking Track has certainly provided one of the most wonderful memories of my New Zealand vacation. I'll always relive the amazing views, hear the bubbling stream and crunch underfoot, and feel the pure, cool air of Tongariro. I walked the entire stretch alone and felt perfectly comfortable, so whether you go solo like me or with a friend or group of friends, just take the proper precautions.
If there's something I've missed or should check out because you've been there, done that, be sure to let me know! I intend to revisit Tongariro down the road and any suggestions would be appreciated.
It's been a while since my last post, but stay with me as I continue my adventure in New Zealand! Sign up for upcoming blog entries and please share if you like this as well. Cheers!